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Corsets in the early19th Century

1800 - 1850's

Recommended Movies:

Count of Monte Cristo, The (2002)
Amistad (1997) 

Buffalo Soldiers (1997)
Emma (1997)
Emperor's New Clothes, The (2002)

Girl, The (1996)
Glass Virgin, The (1995)
Governess, The (1998)
Great Expectations (1989)
Great Expectations (1999)

Immortal Beloved (1994)
Jane Eyre (1996)
Jane Eyre (1997)
Les Miserables (1998)
 

Mansfield Park (1999)
Master and Commander (2003)

Mill on the Floss, The (1997)
Persuasion (1995)

Possession (2002)
Pride and Prejudice (1995)
Princess Caraboo (1994)
Prisoner of Honor (1991)
Sense and Sensibility (1995)
Time Bandits (1981)

Tipping the Velvet (2002)

Washington Square (1997)
Wuthering Heights (1992)
Wuthering Heights (1998)

Vanity Fair (2004)

The Black Velvet Gown (1991)
 

 

 

Many corsets are discarded by the beginning of the century, returning around 1810.

(I am sure not everyone tossed away their corsets)

 

Early 19th century corsets of the 1820s-40s were still called stays. They were usually white or beige in color, made from cotton or linen and sometimes had colored stitching. Most of these corsets were home made and many were corded and embroidered in beautiful and elaborate decorative patterns. A single stiff wooden or Ivory busk was inserted into a pocket down the closed center front  for support. Beautifully carved and painted busks are often given as a love token.  All corsets were over bust and most opened in the center back only. Grommets were made of carved ivory, bone or wood.

 

These new corsets no longer compresses the upper torso into a rigid cone. A fashionable corset of the 19th century not only slims the waist, but supports and separates the bust as well. This is the first point in history that the breasts are separated.

 

1800-1809

 

  For a brief time many women did not wear corsets. Fashion of the time made it un-necessary for those blessed with an appropriate figure. For some, false breasts or modesty panels are worn beneath the fashionable low-cut sheer gowns.

    

 

1810's

 

The divorce corset appears, so-called because it separates the breasts for the first time in centuries. The bust is separated

 with the use of a busk. The first busks were of wood, Ivory or Bone and sometimes elaborately

 

  

 

 

1820's

 

Corsets are most often white and often elaborately embroidered, corded and quilted.

There is no boning other than the center front busk.

 

1828-metal eyelets invented

Not yet commonly accepted for corsets

Hand stitching or ivory eyelets are most often used to bind the eyelet holes

 

Some corsets are still spiral laced but most seem to have been cross-laced like our modern athletic shoes.

Fuller skirts brought the need for multiple starched and corded petticoats, until the introduction of the cage crinoline in the 1850s.

 

The above three photos Courtesy of antique-fashion.com

 

1830's

 

1837- Queen Victoria becomes Queen of England at age 18, marking the official beginning of the "Victorian" era

Puff sleeves needed little pillows for support

1830’s-40’s- Men known as Dandy’s are corseted

 

Pantaloons are now commonly worn by women. They remained long until about 1870 then became progressively

 shorter until 1914 when they were simply strait short knickers

 

The above three photos Courtesy of antique-fashion.com

 

 

 

 

1840's

 

"The corsets of the 1840s were cut from separate pieces stitched together to give roundness to the bust and shaping over the hips. A broad busk (a flat length of wood or steel) was inserted up the center front of the corset to give a smooth line to the bodice of the dress. Strips of whalebone were also inserted up the back and sometimes down the side and front, to give more structure."  -Lucy Johnstone, curator of fashion from 1800 to 1914 at the V&A

1840 - rubber is discovered

Steel slowly begins to replaces whalebone (Baleen)

Corsets are more boned than previous 3 decades

The steel busk closure is introduced

An elaborately carved whalebone busk of 1846

The busk was inserted into the long narrow pocket down the center front of the corset.

 

1850's

 

"The development of the sewing machine in the early 1850s was one of the most important innovations of the 19th century as it led to the mass production of clothes including underwear. Although many corsets of the 1850s were still stitched by hand, the speed of sewing on a machine meant that manufacturers could produce corsets in far greater numbers and increase the variety of designs. Corsetry and underwear manufacture therefore became a major industry." -Lucy Johnstone, curator of fashion from 1800 to 1914 at the V&A

The steel busk clasp closure is now becoming common for use in the front of corsets, as is the use of metal eyelets

June 1856- cage crinoline introduced

 

   

 

 

Continue to next page - 1860's

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