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18th Century Fully Boned Stay (corset) circa 1725-1775
Inventory # 0140
   

 

Measurements:

34" Bust

26.5" Waist

12.5" Center front length

15.25" Center back length

 

One of my absolute treasures!

(and so much to say about this one)

 

This corset likely dates to the second or third quarter of the 18th century and is similar to others I have seen of the period with the silk damask front section.

 

Corset is fully boned (there are no gaps between the bone channels) with hand cut strips of baleen (whalebone). Completely hand sewn with what appears to be a backstitch on the boning channels and seams. The tear at the upper right front reveals that the front section is constructed from three layers of heavy natural colored linen beneath the silk damask face. The rest of the corset seems to be made of two layers of stiff heavy natural linen beneath the finer gold colored linen face.

 

Corset is constructed of a total of seven panels. Each panel was fully boned and constructed separately then attached together at the seams. Seams are backstitched and the seam allowance is held open on the inside with a large whip stitch. Each seam is covered in a narrow tape on the exterior. Corset is bound in a thin cream leather. The bottom front has a wider leather binding which may be a later repair. I do find it odd that the leather is sewn through for the front few bone casings. There may have been some sort of lining on the interior of the tabs once since there appears to be some un-occupied stitch holes.

The waist line of the side and back panels is reinforced with a wide band of linen. The front panel's lower abdomen area is reinforced with a large patch containing numerous layers of linen as well as a wide tight strap which holds the corset away from the body a bit. (see photo below where my hand is placed below it). I feel that this is a significant clue as to it's date and suspect the corset dates more towards the second quarter of the 18th century because of it. 

 

Corset is spiral laced with 10 hand sewn eyelets per side. Several of the eyelets are ripping through a bit from it's use.

 

 

*** So here is what I think about that controversial and odd little strap across the belly. It reminds me of the earlier stays where the center front of the stay (and only the center front itself) was intentionally bowed out with a ridge like the front of a ship. This strap causes that effect yet only slightly and at the bottom. It is definitely done deliberately and only slightly in the controlled area. The stays I have seen that had that (although more to the extreme) were late 17th and early 18th century. I think this is the last remnant of that style of shaping. This is why I lean towards 1740-50 as possible dates for this stay.

What do you think?

I would love any input any of you out there have!

 

 

 

Click to enlarge:

 

 

 

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