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Lara Corsets & Gowns Historically Accurate & Inspired Garments for Women |
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| 15th Century Women's Clothing During England's War of the Roses | |||
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(The historic reenactment group I belong to focuses on the year 1471) Though many of the images below come from religious manuscripts I focus on the images portraying regular people to study their clothing. I have also deliberately focused on image sources from Northern Europe. |
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| Under Construction | |||
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The layers of clothing commonly worn: |
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As a new recruit many of the items can possibly be borrowed from other members. By the end of your first year you should have your own set of garments please.
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| The shift | |||
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Shift (sometimes called a Smock or a Chemise): The shift is the undermost layer, worn next to the skin and is the "underwear" of the time. It is worn by all women, of all classes with the quality of linen and sewing being finer for those more wealthy. It is always made of white linen and should be scoop necked, long sleeved and mid-calf length or longer. This garment is worn at all times, under all other garments. It creates a breathable barrier between your skin and gown. It is recommended to eventually have at least two shifts as they will get dirty the quickest. |
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Boccace, Le Décaméron, Flandres, (BNF, Arsenal, manuscript 5070 fol. 38), c.1432 |
Illustration from the Roman de Tristan (Musée Condé 645, fol. 101r), c. 1479-1480 |
Bohort helps Benigne (BNF Fr. 111, fol. 139), c. 1480 |
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| There is also an odd type of sleeveless shift shown below. Research is on going about this type of shift: | |||
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Jason and Medea put their clothes on, The Trojan War (ÖNB 2773, fol. 18v), c. 1445-1450 |
Marriage, Der Renner (PML, M.763, fol. 141r), Austria, probably in Tyrol, last quarter of the 15th century |
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The Under Gown |
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There are a few variations of under gown. All should be made of a light weight
wool and may have a full or partial white or natural |
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The first type of under gown (and I believe most common) is the laced front kirtle with a ruffle at the hem This type of under gown can have long or short sleeves (and possibly be sleeveless as well; though I have no documentation for that yet). |
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Ca. 1470 Dancing Peasants The woman on the left is wearing a fur lined over gown over her under gown with a ruffle at the hem.The woman on the right is wearing her blue under gown over a shift with an apron on top. Essentially she is dancing in her underwear. |
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 Illustration of mining by Robinet Testard, late 15th century |
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Hours of Anne of France. (PML, MS M.677 fol. 211r) Bourges, France, c. 1473 |
Book of hours. Rouen, France, (PML, MS M.1093 fol. 67r) ca. 1470 |
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There is the unusual variety of gown (under gown?) with deliberately open lacing at the front. It is often seen on younger girls and saints (as outer gowns; possibly to portray innocence?) - (research is on going): |
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 De consolatione philosophiae. (PML, MS M.222 fol. 4r) France, the Loire River Valley or Bourges, ca. 1465 |
Book of hours. (PML, MS M.6 fol. 009va) France; Belgium, ca. 1480 |
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| There is also the mysterious under gown (which may be a variation of the one above) with an open laced front and a bust band or stomacher built into it. Research is ongoing about this one: | |||
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The Over Gown |
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There are a few options for over gowns. All should be made of wool and may or may not be partially or fully lined in either white linen, colored wool or fur: |
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A very common over gown for all classes of Women is the long sleeved kirtle of wool. Many of these seem very fitted and often lace up the front. Other variations seem more loosely fitted and most likely slipped-over-the-head. I see no evidence of the laced up variety being fur lined yet the looser slip-over-the-head variety seems to have often been lined and often with fur: |
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Book of hours. Rouen, France, (PML, MS M.1093 fol. 57r) ca. 1470 |
Her laced front over gown has been removed and lies on the ground..
Hours of Anne of France. (PML, MS M.677 fol. 211r) Bourges, France, c. 1473 |
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 Book of Hours (PML, m1001.088r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
 Book of Hours (PML, m1001.091r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
 Book of hours. (PML, MS M.136 fol. 95vc) France, ca. 1480 |
 Book of hours. (PML, MS M.136 fol. 017rc) France, ca. 1480 |
| Sometimes we see the slip-over-the-head wool over gown with slits up either side. (Research is on going to determine if this was at all common): | |||
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| Sometimes we see a slip-over-the-head wool over gown that is sleeveless (again, research is on going): | |||
Book of Hours of Charles d'Angoulême, late 15th century |
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| And of course there is the "V" necked gown which would most often be worn with a stomacher and wide belt. The "V" necked gown was worn by Woman of most classes with the quality of the material and fur determining status: | |||
Hours of Anne of France. Bourges, France, ca. 1473 |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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Images which show the interior (linings) over gowns: From what we often see in the images some gown interiors seem to be the same color as the exterior leading us to believe it was unlined. Some are solid white and may be linen, wool or fur. The ones lined in fur often appear textured. Then there are the colorful ones which may be lined in a colored wool: |
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The blue gown has a white fur lining. Book of Hours (PML, m1001.091r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
Her over gown seems to be lined in a blue color. Perhaps it is a grey fur? Illustration of mining by Robinet Testard, late 15th century |
The woman on the left is wearing a fur lined over gown. Ca. 1470 Dancing Peasants |
Black lining, likely fur. |
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The red gown may be unlined and the green is likely lined in white fur. |
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What about gowns with pin-on or different colored sleeves? Saints seem to wear fancy ones and regular people seem to wear solid colored ones...I am still researching and have not yet formed a solid opinion: |
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Book of hours. (PML, MS M.6 fol. 51v) France; Belgium, ca. 1480 |
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Women's Hats |
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There are numerous types
of head wear options.
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| First and most common is a variation of a white linen head cloth wrapped and pinned upon the head. This is worn by all classes: | |||
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 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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Book of hours. (PML, MS M.6 fol. 51v) France; Belgium, ca. 1480 |
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| There is the white linen tailed cap which can be made as simply as a linen square with two ends tied up or more constructed as shown on page 199 of The Medieval Tailor's Assistant: | |||
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Hours of Anne of France. (PML, MS M.677 fol. 211r) Bourges, France, c. 1473 |
 Book of Hours (PML, m1001.034r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
 Book of Hours (PML, m1001.034r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
(BNF, 22971) Français, ca. 1480-85 |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
 Illustration of mining by Robinet Testard, late 15th century |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
Book of Hours of Charles d'Angoulême, late 15th century
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There is what seems to be a fitted Linen Coif which may have been worn beneath other head dresses. It seems to have been popular in the first half of the 15th century. There are few examples and research is on going: |
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 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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 The Decameron, 1432 |
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There is the wool head band with loop which is often worn under other head dresses and on rare occasion is worn alone. It seems to come in different widths and always be back: |
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 Book of Hours (PML, m1001.018r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
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There is the wool hood with a long tail which may be worn over a white linen cap or with a wool head band with loop. It seems to have been very popular and was worn by all classes of Women: |
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The Decameron, 1432 |
Book of hours. (PML, MS M.1027 fol. 105r) France, perhaps Paris, ca. 1465. |
Book of Hours (PML, m1001.044rb) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
 Sometimes the wool hood's tail is worn wrapped around the hat like the above left. Book of hours. (PML M. 1001, fol. 48r), Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
 Book of hours. (PML, MS M.6 fol. 41r) France; Belgium, ca. 1480 |
 King Rex’s prisoners, Les Cent Nouvelles (Glasgow Univ. Hunter 252, fol. 186r), c. 1475-1500 |
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Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
A shepherdess in the Rohan Hours (BNF Lat. 9471, fol. 85v) |
Book of Hours of Charles d'Angoulême, late 15th century |
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| There is the another variation of wool hood which has a longer back and shorter tail that is often worn with the tail pinned forward: | |||
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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There is the Truncated Henin worn by mid and upper classes. This may have been worn over the above looped head band or have the loop built onto it. It is worn both with or without a veil: |
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| There is the Truncated Henin with a hood worn by mid and upper classes. | |||
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Book of hours. (PML, MS M.136 fol. 95vc) France, ca. 1480 |
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There are higher end court head dresses such as the Butterfly Henin which
would be worn exclusively by nobility
(this type is not approved for use in Lord Greys as we have no-one of such status) |
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In some rare examples we see a Henin which seems to have a chin strap of some sort or a sort of ear anchoring strap? This does not seem to be at all common, See the images below: |
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De consolatione philosophiae. (PML, MS M.222 fol. 39r) France, the Loire River Valley or Bourges, ca. 1465 |
Destruction de la noble cite de Thebes. (PML, MS G.23 fol. 48r) France, March 9, 1474 |
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| Straw Hats seem to have been worn by lower classes and field workers almost exclusively: | |||
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The meadows and the woods (haymaking), Livre des prouffitz champestres et ruraulx (BNF Arsenal 5064, fol. 198v), third quarter of the 15th century |
June, in The Grimani Breviary,
1490-1510 |
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Ivre des prouffis champestres et ruraux. (PML MS M.232 fol. 201v) Bruges, Belgium, ca. 1470 |
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Women's Hose & Garters |
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There are few images of Women's hose.
Please forgive me for using the racy ones: Need to be made of wool. They are made to fit to just above the knee and fold down over your garters. It is recommended to have at least two pair. Ideally one pair of lighter weight for warm days and one pair of heavier weight for cold weather. |
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 Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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 the Decameron, (BNF Fr. 239, fol. 204v), 15th century |
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Women's Shoes |
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Shoes: Shoes should be made in a style like seen in art of the 15th century or from an example of shoes from that era. We prefer a brown color or finish to black. Please no bright colors like red or gold, and only use colors you can prove existed. Shoes should be made of a thick bottom and thinner leather on the upper part. The upper should not be more than 4 oz. leather and should be malleable. Vegetable tan or oak tan leather will work best and chrome tan leather should be avoided. Shoes must at least be constructed as a turn shoe with the proper split hold, also known as a top stitch. No high boots permitted. |
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Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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Women's Belts |
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Women's Purses |
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Illustration of mining by Robinet Testard, late 15th century |
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Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
Book of Hours (PML, m1001.091r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
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Women's Aprons |
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So far I see only two different colors of aprons in the images. The white apron
is common and worn by many different people, mostly while working. I believe it likely to be made of white linen but might be made of wool as well? There is another apron I am seeing often which is seemingly made from black wool. So far it seems to have been worn by Women spinning yarn. |
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Book of hours. (PML M. 1001, fol. 48r), Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
Book of Hours (PML, m1001.034r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
Book of hours. (PML, MS M.6 fol. 51v) France; Belgium, ca. 1480 |
(BNF, 22971) Français, ca. 1480-85 |
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Book of Hours (PML, m1001.088r) Poitiers, France, ca. 1475 |
Le Roman de la Rose Made for Louise of Savoy (OXF, Bodleian, MS. Douce 195) French, late 15th century |
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On the Selection of Fabrics for 15th century clothing: |
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Linen: Please, do not purchase any fabrics that have any percentage of manufactured fiber content. No poly, rayon, nylon, lycra, etc. We only use 100% wool, 100% linen or 100% silk. (*there are a few possible blends to be added later with further research) |
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On the Selection of Furs for 15th century clothing: |
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The climate of the 15th century is reputed to have been colder then to what we are now accustomed. Fur lined garments were common for people of all classes. "The brisk trade in second-hand furs which went on in during the Middle Ages made it easier for those with little money to wear furs." (1) The type and quality of the fur is was what separated the upper classes from the lower, or at least were supposed to. Beale says on page 5 of her book: " During the 15th century, when living standards were rising, Peter Idley, a gentleman falconer who wrote some verses for his son, complained that it was hard to tell 'a tapster, a cookesse, or a Hosteller's wife fro a gentilwoman'." Sumptuary Laws were passed throughout the 15th century making it illegal for certain classes to wear certain types of fur. It was obviously a problem. Here I list appropriate furs according to the law. Whether you would have or could have afforded to break the law and pay the fine is a matter to be discussed with the group. The quality of the fur pelts themselves determine their worth more then the species of the fur. "In the Winter months the fur fibre is thicker, fuller and more lustrous. Later in the mating season, when animals are shedding some of their hair, skins are poorer in quality and the fur is often marked; it is scantier still in Summer." -Beale, page 22 It was not uncommon to combine specific furs for economical reasons. "It became customary for the lining that showed, known as the purfell of a gown, to be made of more expensive skins then those used for the rest, although of the same color." - Beale, page29 Furs even the lower classes could afford: Lamb - often called budge, was by far a favorite for it's value Coney (rabbit), common and found locally. Grey was the most common and black was more valuable Otter - common and found locally Squirrel - many shades (grey, grey & white, dark grey, black and reddish brown but red streaked was the cheapest) Fox - Common red fox. found locally Beaver - often sheared (p.27 of Beale's book), Goat Deer - imported from Ireland door mouse - also called loirre or leron Wolf - (Beale, page 66) Middle/Merchant Class fur: Higher qualities of the above furs Pine Martin - brown Stone Martin - also called by it's French name, foynes Stoats (ermine in Summer) Polecats - also called fitch or fichew (numerous colors, resembles mink) Mink - numerous shades Weasels - brown (turns white in Winter and that fur is called lettice) Lynx Upper class fur: Higher qualities of all above furs Black Fox Sable - dark brown to black (the most Admired fur of our period) Civet Cat - also called genette Furs for the Highest social ranks of Knights and higher: (Well beyond the portrayal levels in our group) Ermine White Fox Bibliography and recommended reading: The English Fur Trade , by Elspeth M. Veale - ISBN 0 90095238 5 (1) page 13 |
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| Thank you to Karen Larsdatter of www.Larsdatter.com for her wonderful website and assistance in leading me to so many wonderful sources for further research! | |||
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Internet sources for manuscript research Most of the above images can be found in their un-cropped original form on the following web sites: |
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